It figured; I awoke to no electricity. No hot water again, I reckon. So, I got ready quickly and went downstairs. We dropped off our packs and then went outside to catch a car to take us to Leaping Tiger Gorge. No way we wanted to take the same car, but when we saw the alternative, I suddenly became wistful for the flashlight-ride. I manned the backseat of the tiny Chinese van, which wasn’t bolted to the floor. So, whenever we ripped around a corner or dodged a boulder along the canyon, the seat would lift up and I’d have to right myself by brabbing on the front seat. The scenery, however, was stupendous….tremendous releif and a raging river at the bottom. We stopped at a restaurant perched high above the gorge and had a fried egg with fried rice – tasty. We opted for a guide (80 RMB…no bargaining again). That was well worth it in the time that it saved with her showing the proper place and paths to take. As with the rest of China, there were numerous paths and rabbit runs leading here and there.

The backside of Jade Dragon Mountain

Rocky peaks line the entrace to “Tiger Leaping Gorge” (“Hu2 Tiao4 Xia2″)

As we descended steeply, the views became better. I had the same exited feeling descending into this gorge as I do when I ascend above treeline in the North Cascades. We stopped at numerous places along the river. The rapids crashed and exploded all around us. The guide told us that this was the “low water” season. Many of the great vista spots are covered by water in summer. There are numerous makeshift bridges to access the various viewpoints that have to be removed before the waters rise too high. Because these bridges are built and maintained by the local villagers, they charge 10 RMB ($1.30) in each area. I think we paid three fees and it was definitely worth it. In one section, the one with most bridges, ladders, and scrambling needed, we were accompanied by an additional guide (paid for by our 10 RMB fee), a woman in her late 50s or 60s I guessed. She scampered up the ladders as well as anyone if not better. I should hire her as a guide for rock climbing or something.

The Argonath in the distance (I dubbed it thus…obviously). Actually, the top of the two large gates of the river is the spot where the tiger leapt. The second picture is looking upriver from the path through the lefthand pillar.

Via Ferrata to the view station.

Big crashing water.

We were right underneath the Argonath – the best part of the gorge when the guide announced that this was the end. The end?? But, it was still so early. I had noticed a gash in the lefthand cliff. “Can we go there?” “No.”…then after more discussion, “Well, it will cost 10 RMB.” Who cares? Let’s go! So we switchedbacked up and follwed the path into the cliff which was obviously hewn by hand. I raved the whole way at our position. The path was wide enough to be comfortable, but the right side plunged directly down to the river five hundred feet below. The further we hiked, the more I wanted to continue. Eventually, after maybe an hour, the terrain became less tortuous and I relented to ascending back up one of the switchbacking side paths. It was funny: The guide had said that a particular path a while back was our last opportunity to get out, but because of my continuous “15 more minutes!”, whaddya know, we found a few more places to go up.

Li Zhen was still struggling to breath and proclaimed, “I hate this place!”, with a tongue-in-cheek expression.
“What are you talking about? This is the best!”
“Too much work!”

When we arrived at the top we made a phone call to our driver (cell phones work almost everywhere) and he arrived to pick us up a mere 15 minutes later). What convenience. We arrived back at the little restaurant where we paid the guide, picked up another driver (the buides brother who wielded a machete to ward off theives). He wanted 400 RMB to take us back to LiJiang, but I wanted to step in and work him down:

<Raise an eyebrow while looking at car (which looks pretty good)> “How about 300?”
“350!”
“Hmmm, no too expensive. How about 300 and we buy you lunch?”
(Lots of laughs from his friends for some reason)
“OK!”

It always pays to at least try. We headed back to the village to retrieve our things and return to LiJiang. Bad weather had moved in and rain was threatening. It never actually rained while we were there, but I think we timed our trip nicely. He ended up not even wanting to eat lunch with us. OK, no problem.

Zoom in of spires high above. There is a new frosting on the north faces.

The ride back was entertaining – always something interesting going on outside. The rest of the evening in LiJiang was uneventful – a good dinner, street wandering, then sleep.

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